Wednesday, June 30, 2004

Shore

Lounging in wicker chairs, we felt as though we were still on vacation in Montauk. Fortunately for us, a new menu of exotic cocktails was debuting tonight, and we decided to prolong our festivities with two big glasses of "Shore Grog." This deceptively smooth blend of spiced, dark, and coconut rums and pineapple and orange juices was quite potent! (Also on the drink menu was an intriguing oyster martini, which we'll have to try on our next visit.)

We munched on warm cornbread while reading over the extensive menu. As is evidenced by the name, Shore specializes in all manner of littlenecks, steamers, lobster rolls and fresh fish. (For those not inclined towards seafood, there's also a 10 oz. burger and a chicken pot pie.) The daily specials today included a fritto misto and a linguini in tomato cream sauce with two kinds of clams.

I opted for the Boston Batter-Fried Combo Plate, a giant tumble of tasty flash-fried clams, sweet jumbo shrimp, and plump scallops scattered over a filet of sole and accompanied by a large pile of French fries. The seafood was perfectly and greaselessly fried, the batter light and flaky. Long after I was full, I could not restrain myself from dipping yet another fried clam in the addictive coriander cocktail and tartar sauces.

My companion's scallop roll was a generous portion of grilled scallops on a toasted, buttered hot dog roll, served with a side of greens.

A homemade strawberry-blueberry pie with a buttery crumb topping was the perfect finale to a completely satisfying summer meal. (Other dessert options included strawberry pie, rhubarb pie and "North Shore" chocolate bread pudding.)

We'll be back for the Sunday jazz brunch and the weekday happy-hour special: 6 oysters and a pint of ale for $10!

Shore: 41 Murray St., (212) 962-3750.
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Sunday, June 20, 2004

Chaa Chaa

I never tire of chocolate ice cream. However, on those rare occasions when I venture beyond chocolate territory, I search out the exotic. Yesterday I went to Chaa Chaa, a small Thai cafe/bakery/ice cream shop which offers a truly unique selection of homemade ice cream flavors, such as black sticky rice, coconut black bean, jasmine palm, lychee and durian. (Yes, you read that correctly. The unlikely fruit seems to be taking Manhattan by storm, making appearances in the cream pie at 5 Ninth and the ice cream at Spice Market!) For those of you who prefer more conventional ice cream, there's also strawberry, pistachio and double dutch chocolate.

Chaa Chaa serves a three-course lunch special for $7, which includes a summer roll (basically a salad tightly wrapped into a thin rice flour tortilla), a choice of chicken or beef curry with rice, and ice cream. Who can resist a lunch special that includes ice cream!

Chaa Chaa: 244 E. 13th St., (212) 529-8770.
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Friday, June 18, 2004

Cold Hot Chocolate

Just in time for the heat wave, Brooklyn's very own Jacques Torres Chocolate has invented a new, refreshing beverage to soothe one's soul: "Cold Hot Chocolate"! Flavored with a bit of mandarin and served ice-cold, it's the perfect remedy for a day spent on hot subway platforms.

Jacques Torres Chocolate: 66 Water St., Brooklyn, (718) 875-9772.
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Tuesday, June 15, 2004

Munching in Montauk (Part 3: Oyster Pond Restaurant & Bar)

We concluded our trip with a memorable meal at Oyster Pond.

The oak-paneled walls and floral banquettes provided an atmosphere of relaxed elegance in which to dine. Warm rosemary focaccia dipped in olive oil whetted our appetites. We began with lobster gazpacho, a unique variation on the summer classic. This was the perfect gazpacho; pulpy, not vinegary or watery, and slightly piquant. In between bites of fresh tomato were sweet chunks of lobster. Our waitress raved about Chef Anthony Alinovi's homemade stocks and sauces when we remarked upon the excellence of the soup. I also enjoyed smearing a flaky ginger-spiked spring roll in hot mustard. The miso-based dressing on the accompanying green salad was among the best I've ever tasted.

Entree time! A soy-mirin glaze added a touch of salty-sweetness to my grilled yellowfin tuna. The large hunk of fish was sprinkled with sesame seeds, punctuated with pickled ginger and wasabi and served on a bed of sticky rice and julienned vegetables. My companion opted for a grilled pizza covered with wild mushrooms, onions and black olives.

We ended this wonderful last meal in Montauk with a chocolate soufflé. A scoop of homemade caramel swirl ice cream (they also have malted milk ball and chocolate caramel swirl) and ribbons of mango and raspberry coulis were fun to mix with the inner chocolate center of the cake.

Oyster Pond Restaurant & Bar: 4 S. Elmwood, Montauk, (631) 668-4200.
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Monday, June 14, 2004

Munching in Montauk (Part 2: Fudge N' Stuff, etc.)

In between that first lovely meal at the Shagwong and the final one at Oyster Pond (which I shall detail shortly), I also thoroughly enjoyed:

Fudge N' Stuff (The Plaza, 631-668-4724): Every beach town seems to have a homemade fudge shop. Most of my childhood summers were spent gorging at Candy Kitchen in Ocean City, MD, so I felt right at home at Fudge N' Stuff. This little shop is chock full of such flavors as Cookies & Cream, Almond Joy and Mud Pie. It's also full of smiles!

Mr. John's Pancake and Steak House (Main St., 631-668-2383): All that laying out in the sun can make a person hungry. Sunbathers should carbo-load with a morning plate of pancakes at Mr. John's. This comfy diner serves many varieties of griddlecakes: chocolate-chip, coconut/coconut syrup, cinnamon-raisin... I opted for some whole-wheat banana pecan cakes, which seemed even larger than the plate they arrived on.

Montauk Bake Shoppe (The Plaza, 631-668-2439): It's no wonder that this bakery has been around since the 50's. The jelly-filled croissants, tomato red onion flatbreads, and lobster-shaped cookies render it a regional, if not national, treasure.

Gosman's Fish Market (Gosman's Dock, 631-668-5645): Although almost everything at Gosman's Restaurant left me cold (except for the sherry-spiked lobster bisque), I was mightily impressed by the gorgeous fish market in the complex, which sells any fish or seafood one's heart might desire, including gorgeous lobsters.
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Sunday, June 13, 2004

Munching in Montauk (Part 1: Shagwong Restaurant)

As the temperature rose this week, I was seized by an uncontrollable desire to be near the ocean. Most of all, I longed to eat fresh fish and seafood by the water. With visions of baked littlenecks in my head, I hopped on a train to Montauk with a companion.

Although we were to enjoy many delicious meals over the course of the trip, the first and last meals stand out in particular: a dinner at the 30-yr-old Shagwong Restaurant, and one at the charmingly rustic Oyster Pond.

Neon fish and lobsters announced the presence of the salt-of-the-earth Shagwong. Once inside, I was captivated by the nautical atmosphere, and even more so by the giant plates of food. The menu overwhelmed me... the wild Atlantic salmon special tempted me. I finally decided on the yellowfin tuna special; unfortunately, so did my companion. Not wanting to miss the opportunity to try more than one entree, I ordered the broiled local fluke. Each dish came with a choice of codfish cake, beef vegetable soup, green salad or cole slaw. We ordered the salad, and settled on the mussels for an appetizer.

We were astonished when a bowl of 40 large mussels arrived at our table. How on earth were we going to finish this "appetizer"? Dipping the plump, sweet mollusks into our garlic white wine sauce, we did manage to make a dent in the pile of large black shells. I also paid some attention to my delicious salad of tomatoes, red onions, field greens, carrots, radicchio, watercress and cucumbers.

No sooner had we signaled our satiety than our entrees were served. My perfectly moist fluke was slathered liberally with lemon butter and served with a toothsome long-grain rice pilaf and steamed carrots and string beans. I eyed my companion's entree with envy: seared, pepper-crusted rare tuna over greens with ponzu sauce, wasabi and pickled ginger. Fortunately, he agreed to share.

Almost stuffed beyond the ability to breathe, I nevertheless asked what was available for dessert. Apple crumb pie? Key lime pie? Cheesecake? The warm molten chocolate cake was my natural choice; Shagwong's denser-than-usual rendition was enough to satisfy both of us, at least until tomorrow.

More about the trip coming soon!

Shagwong Restaurant: Main St., Montauk, (631) 668-3050.
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